Kashmir’s fish delicacy tells a tale of change

The onset of winter in Kashmir is marked by the preparation and consumption of a variety of delicacies such as sun-dried vegetables and dried smoked fish, locally known as phaere.   

Preparing phaere is a long and intricate process, traditionally carried out by the Hanji—the indigenous fishing community who have lived near Srinagar’s Dal lake for generations. While Hanji men are engaged in fishing, the women handle the drying and smoking process. The preparation begins in late summer, usually with snow trout—locally known as kasher gaad—being dried in the sun. A local wild grass known as thathir or naar gaase that grows in the wetlands during autumn is burned to smoke the fish.

“I have been involved in smoking fish since I was a child, and learned the process from my elders,” says Hanief Mohammad Badyari, a local fisherman. However, Hanief’s sons are no longer interested in the profession of fishing and have opted to work in tourism.

Ghulam Mohammad Badyari, a fisherman in his mid-seventies, says that unplanned urbanisation has led to encroachment and pollution of the lakes; this presents additional challenges for the community. He notes, “The sewerage [from the city] flows into water bodies, especially Dal lake and Nigeen lake. This has affected the fish production and overall ecosystem of the lakes.” He mentions that this has impacted the community’s livelihood.

“Around 20 years ago, approximately 1,000 families residing in and around Dal lake would earn their livelihood by preparing and selling smoked fish. Today, this tradition is upheld by only a handful of families,” says Ghulam. More and more Hanji families are moving to other sources of livelihoods, particularly tourism. Families that can’t afford the switch grapple with the decrease in fish population, and struggle to make ends meet. 

Sameer Showkin Lone is a journalist and development professional.

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